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Offline TotnesSteve

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Lust Lowering Links, on Gen2 XrX
« on: April 03, 2018, 11:21:33 AM »
Fitting these is a mere bagatelle for you techies, but I thought I would post this for anyone interested in buying and fitting the links.

Tools needed: 14mm and 16mm sockets. Socket driver and torque wrench. 5mm allan key. 6mm allan key socket. 8mm and 10mm spanners.

Materials: all purpose grease.

Skill level: minimal, just a bit of care needed.

The links themselves are quite easy to fit. The swing arm must be supported in such as way as to enable you to lift it by 10mm or so. I did this by putting the bike on the centre stand and then wedging a couple of bits of 15mm plywood under the back wheel when I needed to raise it.

Remove the bolts as directed in the instructions. To remove the rear one, I removed the silencer. Fixing bolt at the rear subframe and the fixing band at the other end need to be removed or loosened, respectively.

I greased the bolts as per instructions, but there was no grease on them when I removed them, so I'm unclear whether this was necessary.

Torque both nuts to 85Nm. Refit exhaust can (taking the opportunity to give it a clean).

I then did a test ride.  The front end was a bit vague.

I then dropped the front forks by 8mm. (Max suggested in instructions is 12mm).

Test rode again. Seems better. I may lower a bit more after testing with wifey on the back.

Put bike on centre stand. Loosen three punch bolts. Use an Allen key socket, taking care to ensure that the allen key is totally shoved home. You really don't want to round off the hex hole. You must torque back to 22Nm, so don't start this unless you have the right tools.

Removing the beak gives much better access (six nuts, four under the beak and one to either side of the headlight.

The forks were reluctant. I had to bash with a hammer, using a block of wood as a drift. A rubber mallet didn't impart enough impact.

And now for the results.

Well, a bit undramatic. 20mm didn't seem that noticeable.

The bike still stands on the side stand, albeit a bit more upright. Need to take care not to park in a windy location.

I can still - just - get the bike back onto the centre stand on level ground. I am 12.5 stone in weight and I need to bounce on it.

As for riding - no change while moving.

I can now get almost all of my foot down on level ground. I am 5'10" and 30.5" inseam. (but I'm also 66 years old with slightly stiff hips. Pretty sure a 30yo will find it easier.)

Am I happy? Yes.

Time taken: about 90 minutes, including faffing around locating spanners.

Hope this helps the next person.
--------
If not now, when?

Offline TotnesSteve

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Re: Lust Lowering Links, on Gen2 XrX
« Reply #1 on: April 03, 2018, 11:22:25 AM »
20mm lowering links, btw.
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Offline ZShyster

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Re: Lust Lowering Links, on Gen2 XrX
« Reply #2 on: April 03, 2018, 11:51:59 AM »
I just installed a set this past week in my 2015 XC and was able to get my torque wrench onto the yoke screws without removing the beak by turning the handlebars slightly.

However, I want to mention that before you start this project you may want to make sure you have a gasket for the exhaust available because quite often you cannot get the muffler back into the original.  I was fortunate I have a local Triumph dealer and he had one available.  I talked with one of the mechanics who said they are a pain in the bottom, he suggested spraying the muffler, the gasket, and the exhaust pipe down with silicone spray to help ease inserting the new gasket so as to not deform the new one while inserting it.  The gasket I am referring to is Part 9 on the diagram:

https://www.bikebandit.com/oem-parts/2015-triumph-tiger-explorer-xc/o/m156669#sch890418 

and Triumph part number  T2202115 

I know some have suggested inserting to link bolts from the other side when reassembling to avoid having to take the muffler off in the future, maybe that is a good idea, however, I generally try to put things back together the way they were designed as much as possible.  Just my own lack of confidence.

Just some thoughts that might help.

ZShyster

Offline TotnesSteve

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Re: Lust Lowering Links, on Gen2 XrX
« Reply #3 on: April 03, 2018, 12:11:02 PM »
*Originally Posted by ZShyster [+]
I just installed a set this past week in my 2015 XC and was able to get my torque wrench onto the yoke screws without removing the beak by turning the handlebars slightly.

However, I want to mention that before you start this project you may want to make sure you have a gasket for the exhaust available because quite often you cannot get the muffler back into the original.  I was fortunate I have a local Triumph dealer and he had one available.  I talked with one of the mechanics who said they are a pain in the bottom, he suggested spraying the muffler, the gasket, and the exhaust pipe down with silicone spray to help ease inserting the new gasket so as to not deform the new one while inserting it.  The gasket I am referring to is Part 9 on the diagram:

https://www.bikebandit.com/oem-parts/2015-triumph-tiger-explorer-xc/o/m156669#sch890418 

and Triumph part number  T2202115 

I know some have suggested inserting to link bolts from the other side when reassembling to avoid having to take the muffler off in the future, maybe that is a good idea, however, I generally try to put things back together the way they were designed as much as possible.  Just my own lack of confidence.

Just some thoughts that might help.

ZShyster

Thanks. Yes, you can do it without removing the beak, but it increases the chance of not bedding in the allen key properly and munging the hex. But that might be just hamfisted types like me.

Agree with your point about putting things back as you found them!

I didn't even realise there was a gasket there! Just got lucky, I think, when replacing. Thanks for mentioning it. Hope the next person reads this whole thread.
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Offline Hawkeye

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Re: Lust Lowering Links, on Gen2 XrX
« Reply #4 on: April 03, 2018, 03:04:26 PM »
Steve, you might find making a small wedge up to run the rear wheel onto to get it on the mainstand will help - I have an XRX-Low which is 40mm lower than the XRX and made a small wedge up using a bit of 4x2 with a bump stop at the end - when I want to put mine on the mainstand (which is one off of a non-Low machine), I run the rear wheel up onto it whilst standing by the side of the bike - bump stop stops the wheel going over the top. Carry it in the top box as well, no weight to it just in case I need it when out for a puncture or similar.

Offline TotnesSteve

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Re: Lust Lowering Links, on Gen2 XrX
« Reply #5 on: April 03, 2018, 05:11:37 PM »
*Originally Posted by Hawkeye [+]
Steve, you might find making a small wedge up to run the rear wheel onto to get it on the mainstand will help - I have an XRX-Low which is 40mm lower than the XRX and made a small wedge up using a bit of 4x2 with a bump stop at the end - when I want to put mine on the mainstand (which is one off of a non-Low machine), I run the rear wheel up onto it whilst standing by the side of the bike - bump stop stops the wheel going over the top. Carry it in the top box as well, no weight to it just in case I need it when out for a puncture or similar.

Thanks, Hawkeye. I like the idea of the bump stop.

I have a turntable in my lockup that needs the rear wheel raised, and I have trouble positioning the bike. The bumpstop is the answer.
--------
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Offline bo_bo100

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Re: Lust Lowering Links, on Gen2 XrX
« Reply #6 on: April 18, 2018, 02:48:01 AM »
*Originally Posted by TotnesSteve [+]
Fitting these is a mere bagatelle for you techies, but I thought I would post this for anyone interested in buying and fitting the links.

Tools needed: 14mm and 16mm sockets. Socket driver and torque wrench. 5mm allan key. 6mm allan key socket. 8mm and 10mm spanners.

Materials: all purpose grease.

Skill level: minimal, just a bit of care needed.

The links themselves are quite easy to fit. The swing arm must be supported in such as way as to enable you to lift it by 10mm or so. I did this by putting the bike on the centre stand and then wedging a couple of bits of 15mm plywood under the back wheel when I needed to raise it.

Remove the bolts as directed in the instructions. To remove the rear one, I removed the silencer. Fixing bolt at the rear subframe and the fixing band at the other end need to be removed or loosened, respectively.

I greased the bolts as per instructions, but there was no grease on them when I removed them, so I'm unclear whether this was necessary.

Torque both nuts to 85Nm. Refit exhaust can (taking the opportunity to give it a clean).

I then did a test ride.  The front end was a bit vague.

I then dropped the front forks by 8mm. (Max suggested in instructions is 12mm).

Test rode again. Seems better. I may lower a bit more after testing with wifey on the back.

Put bike on centre stand. Loosen three punch bolts. Use an Allen key socket, taking care to ensure that the allen key is totally shoved home. You really don't want to round off the hex hole. You must torque back to 22Nm, so don't start this unless you have the right tools.

Removing the beak gives much better access (six nuts, four under the beak and one to either side of the headlight.

The forks were reluctant. I had to bash with a hammer, using a block of wood as a drift. A rubber mallet didn't impart enough impact.

And now for the results.

Well, a bit undramatic. 20mm didn't seem that noticeable.

The bike still stands on the side stand, albeit a bit more upright. Need to take care not to park in a windy location.

I can still - just - get the bike back onto the centre stand on level ground. I am 12.5 stone in weight and I need to bounce on it.

As for riding - no change while moving.

I can now get almost all of my foot down on level ground. I am 5'10" and 30.5" inseam. (but I'm also 66 years old with slightly stiff hips. Pretty sure a 30yo will find it easier.)

Am I happy? Yes.

Time taken: about 90 minutes, including faffing around locating spanners.

Hope this helps the next person.

So what have you done about the side stand ? does it need to be shortened ?

bo

Offline TotnesSteve

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Re: Lust Lowering Links, on Gen2 XrX
« Reply #7 on: April 18, 2018, 10:51:37 PM »
*Originally Posted by bo_bo100 [+]

So what have you done about the side stand ? does it need to be shortened ?

bo

I have left it untouched.

When set to ROAD, it works fine. Bike is just a bit more upright. When set to OFF-ROAD, it is almost vertical, and I wouldn't leave it parked like that. A high wind or a nudge would tip it.

I can still get the bike onto the centre stand on level ground, but I have to grunt when I do so.
--------
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Offline bo_bo100

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Re: Lust Lowering Links, on Gen2 XrX
« Reply #8 on: April 19, 2018, 05:45:50 AM »
i see you installed the 20mm kit, i ordered the 40mm. i might have a problem ,lol

Offline TotnesSteve

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Re: Lust Lowering Links, on Gen2 XrX
« Reply #9 on: April 19, 2018, 12:39:16 PM »
*Originally Posted by bo_bo100 [+]
i see you installed the 20mm kit, i ordered the 40mm. i might have a problem ,lol


Yes, it will be too upright on the side stand.

You know, I'm not sure how the suspension system reacts to being compressed by the lowering links.

It *could* think that it's a heavy load and pump the pre-load up, which would in part negate the effect of the lowering. The effect of 20mm lowering is not very apparent when riding and, crucially, stopping and putting a foot down.

What we need is a techie on here who does know how it reacts. It could be that lowering 20mm is just like a heavy wife getting on the pillion. 😧 The system does what it is designed to do, and pumps up the preload.

(Alert: I only half know what I'm talking about here. Be gentle with me.)
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If not now, when?

 


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