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Offline coolhand

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Tips when checking/adjusting valve clearances, etc
« on: March 31, 2019, 03:50:41 PM »
I have just finished checking and adjusting the valves - valve cover in place, now I only need to put it all back together and start the engine to see if I succeeded  :156:

I used Mark's manual for the job, with the workshop manual for reference. Here is a few tips for those of you doing this the first (or second?) time. This is things I use to do when reshimming and such. I am not a mechanic, just an experienced self-taught motorcycle mechaning. I  thought I'd sahre some of my habits, if you can use them for yourself. English is not my native lanuage, so if anything is unclear or seems wierd, just tell me and I will try to explain it better.

- Using a torque wrench to tighten the camshaft ladder bolts is possible: In Mark's manual it says it is not possible to use a torque wrench when tightening the bolts at the camshaft lader (aka the spider). Well, it is possible! I used a small torque wrench (0-20 nm). The wrench has a total length of 30 cm. The bolts are 8mm hexagon, so find a bit that wil fight right on. With a torque wrecnh this short in lenght, I managed to access almost all the bolts from the righthand side, using the lefthand side to access the leftmost four bolts. As long as you have all the wires and stuff out of the way, I found it quite easy to use the wrench for this. Easy-peasy!

- How to tight evenly using a torque wrench: When you tighten the camshaft ladder bolts, use the torque wrench and tighten them in 2-4 nm increments. I started by fingertightening, then tightening all bolts to 4 nm, then all bolts to 6 nm, then all to 8 nm, then all to 10 nm (tip from my brother who is a mechanic). This way you are sure that you do not bend the camshafts, as the tightening is equal (just do the bolts in the correct order!)

- Use the cam holding tool (the Tiger Explorer special tool) for making sure the camhshaft timing is perfect) to lock the camshafts in position. That way, they will not shift/twist) when you bolt down the camshaft ladder (the workshop manual has you do this, but Marks manual does not).  Very important: The cams must be perfectly aligned / timed for you to do this! THis means check and adjust timing as necessary, BEFORE remiving cams and adjusting valves. If you do this and the cams are just a tiny bit out of spec, there is a risk that the ladder bolts will require different torque, due to the cams excerting pressure when tightening down. And you might damage the cams. Anyway, after the bolts are tightened down, screw out the cam holding tool and then requeck that the torque on the bolts are correct.

- Removing the spark plugs - best left to do after camshaft ladder is oss: It is much easier to remove the spark plugs after the camshaft ladder is off. Beware not to lose the o-rings around the spark plug holes, though. Oh, and remove the spark plugs before you turn the engine, it is much easier with the plugs out.

- When reshimming - go towards the loose end of margin: I have shimmed a couple of bikes in my life, and there is two rules I follow: The valves will almost always go totwards closed as time and km goes by. So when reshimming, keep within margins, but go towards the open end of the margins. When you reshim, sometimes you will se when you check the valve clearance, that you did not hit excactly the opening you thought, and more often than not the clearance will be towards the tight end. Therefore, I always calculate to keep the clearance towards the open end. The last time I did this (yesterday), this resulted in valve clearances towards the open end. It is a good idea to have the same opening on all valves, if possible. Triumph sell shims in 0.005 increments, so it is easy to calculate what you need.

- When measuring clearances: Use a feeler blade with increments down to 0.02 mm. Any bigger will result in bigger margins of error when ordering shims. Feeler blades like this is available in any hardware store (at least here in Norway).

- When measuring shims: Don't trust the numbers on the shims. MEASURE them!!! Use a manual micrometer with 0.001 measure limit. The micrometer is way better than any digital instrument.


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