2018 Gen 3 - Won't start

[XCaTel]

Originally Posted by CraptainC

Great stuff - glad you got it sorted .... and took a few good pics of the assembly along the way

When I did mine I felt that the locking mechanism on such an important connector was somewhat lacking. And relying on a single cable tie (on only one of the cables) for strain relief & to protect the cable from disconnection, is IMO poor design 

Yes, it is odd that only one of those cables is protected by that cable tie, now I know I shall be adding that torx screwdriver to my toolkit!   If the bars are never touched it will not be an issue for anybody though.

[jannerman]

Originally Posted by CraptainC

When I did mine I felt that the locking mechanism on such an important connector was somewhat lacking. And relying on a single cable tie (on only one of the cables) for strain relief & to protect the cable from disconnection, is IMO poor design 

it's totally inadequate! Mine was playing up again the other day after parking up at the supermarket, couldn't help thinking that someone had been fiddling around with it. This time I was aware of the likely cause and it was easily fixed. But something more permanent would be good.

[CraptainC]

Originally Posted by XCaTel

If the bars are never touched it will not be an issue for anybody though.

I guess this is the price we pay for 'customisation'    Hopefully others will benefit from our self inflicted pain 

[Captain Tom]

I am pleased to hear you are all sorted and pleased I joined the site when you can see the clear benefits of world wide experiences.

I am new to the site and read the through this thread last night and I do have an underlying worry about so many electrics. So when after riding my bike this morning with no problems until I stopped it, when I tried to start it again, nothing!! I was just a little concerned ☹️☹️

Ended up ringing the dealer, who after checking the obvious things asked me to try holding the key against the transponder on the side of the bike under the pillion seat (remember I am a newbie) and it started.

On his advice I put a new battery in the “Smart” key when I got home and it’s now working again. 👍👍
I now have a spare key battery in the tool kit and feel happy again😀 loving the bike.

Just one question, is it usual to smell petrol when sat on the bike stationary on tick over? I was doing some instructor training this morning, so quite often sat on tick over and kept getting a whiff of petrol.

[KenW]

Good guidance, good fix and result.  And yes, good photos.
I think this thread will be one to refer to from now on, as others come unstuck for the same reason as XCaTel.

[XCaTel]

Originally Posted by Captain Tom

 
I now have a spare key battery in the tool kit and feel happy again😀 loving the bike.

Just one question, is it usual to smell petrol when sat on the bike stationary on tick over? I was doing some instructor training this morning, so quite often sat on tick over and kept getting a whiff of petrol.

Don't worry about carrying a spare battery. The main fob works as a transponder where you held it on the bike without a battery just like the spare keys. You may find you get "keyfob out of range" quite often too unless the key is in your lower jacket pocket.

No, it is not usual to smell petrol. Just see if you can nail it down to the filler cap breather (you never know) or it might be a damaged/lose fuel line. I would have that checked out.

[Captain Tom]

Thank you, I’ll be back on the bike tomorrow so I’ll take a bit more notice if I smell it again and look for anything obvious. 👍

[CaptainTrips]

Originally Posted by XCaTel

Yes, it is odd that only one of those cables is protected by that cable tie, now I know I shall be adding that torx screwdriver to my toolkit!   If the bars are never touched it will not be an issue for anybody though.

Still, it's not hard to imagine that connector being dislodged if the bike were dropped, even in a parking lot.

[XCaTel]

I have to make a correction here guys. The clutch switch cable is cable tied internally in the switch housing but there is a tab on the outside of the switch block which is there to cable tie the two other cables to take the strain on them. This cable tie was missing on my bike and this is why I pulled one of them slightly out of its socket when fitting the risers. I know where this cable tie was lost too, my switch blocks were changed as part of my bikes system failure 18 months ago and the cable tie was never replaced. Worth checking to make sure yours is there when adding any risers.

And now for my big admission  I nicked, barely nicked the internal ribbon on my switch block putting it back on and lost my left hand indicators. Bike starts and runs fine and hazards work. I was pushed for time and hurried the job and got careless. I'm in the hole for a new switch cube.   I have to say I was amazed at how low cost the entire switch block is from Triumph considering it controls the cruise, lights, menu joystick, modes etc. €140, not too bad, €140 more than I wanted to pay but I was fearing €300-€400 mark like some other manufacturers.

So that taught me an expensive lesson, "more haste, less speed", which I should know by now, at my age! 

[Captain Tom]

  Nice correction, we are never too old to learn, or make mistakes👍